32 Stitches of Excellence The Secret Techniques of Chikankari Masters

Chikankari Stitches and Lucknowi Embroidery Techniques

What keeps chikankari embroidery patterns timeless even in the age of fast fashion? The secret lies in its intricate hand embroidery stitches and the skilled artisans who have perfected them over generations.

Originating in Lucknow during the Mughal era, chikankari began as white-on-white embroidery for royal garments. Over centuries, the craft has evolved while holding onto its roots from breezy everyday kurtis to exquisite bridal ensembles. Every chikankari kurti for women is more than just a garment; it’s a canvas of artistry and precision.

Brand like House of Chikankari are preserving Lucknowi embroidery techniques while creating modern silhouettes that appeal to today’s conscious fashion buyers.

How Many Types of Stitches Are in Chikankari and the Traditional Stitching Methods

There are 32 chikankari stitches types, grouped into three main categories flat stitches, raised stitches, and jali work. Each stitch serves a unique purpose, from adding delicate outlines to creating depth and texture.

Flat Stitches in Chikankari Embroidery

Flat stitches are the base of most needlework patterns, ideal for soft outlines and subtle designs. These stitches give chikankari its understated elegance.

• Taipchi: Used to create light, simple outlines, often seen in everyday kurtis.
  

• Bakhiya (Shadow Work): Creates a shadowy effect where the thread is worked from the back of the fabric.
  

• Khatao: Similar to appliqué, this stitch involves cutting out fabric and layering it for extra depth.
  

• Pashni: Used to define delicate borders, especially on finer fabrics like georgette and chiffon.
  

• Gitti: A circular stitch often used for small floral patterns.
  

• Bijli: A straight-line stitch that’s perfect for linear designs.
  

• Rahet: Slightly thicker lines that outline heavy motifs.
  

• Ghas Patti: Used for leaves and vine patterns with a soft, grass-like texture.
  

• Zanzeera: A chain-like stitch often used to connect intricate floral motifs.
  
  Hool: A hole-based stitch, often forming the center of floral patterns.

Raised Stitches in Chikankari Embroidery

Raised stitches give chikankari embroidery patterns their luxurious texture and dimension, making them perfect for festive and bridal wear.

• Murri: Tiny, grain-like knots that add a pearl-like finish to motifs.
  

• Phanda: Rounded knots used in the centers of flowers or to fill designs.
  

• Keel Kangan: A fan-like stitch used in leaf and petal detailing.
  

• Khanda: Slightly elongated knots that create a unique texture.
  

• Hatheli: Broad raised stitches, often used in heavier traditional stitching methods for bridal wear.
  

• Karan Phool: Floral-inspired raised stitches often used to highlight grand motifs.
  

• Kaudi: Resembling small shells, this stitch is a hallmark of skilled craftsmanship.
  

• Dhum: A bold raised stitch often used in statement embroidery pieces.
  

• Kauri: Similar to Kaudi but with a slightly flatter finish.
  

• Bijli Ka Phool: Raised stitches arranged like petals for floral highlights.

Jali Work in Lucknowi Embroidery Techniques

Jali work is the most intricate among chikankari stitches types and showcases true mastery of Lucknowi embroidery techniques. These stitches create delicate, net-like patterns without cutting threads, giving chikankari its signature airy elegance.

• Jali: The classic net stitch, forming uniform mesh patterns.
  

• Sazi Jali: Slightly denser netting for bold statement patterns.
  

• Chik Jali: Fine, intricate netting often used in bridal chikankari ensembles.
  

• Tepchi Jali: Combines outlining with netting for more geometric needlework patterns.
  

• Bhul Bhulaiya: Maze-like netting patterns for a rich, dramatic effect.
  

• Patti Jali: Leaf-patterned netting, often used in dupattas.
  

• Angoor Bel Jali: Grape-vine inspired netting with flowing, curvy patterns.
  

• Hathkadi Jali: Bracelet-like patterns woven into the mesh.
  

• Mashroo Jali: Luxurious, complex patterns often used in couture-level chikankari.
  

• Shankar Jali: Rare stitch combining symmetry and texture for heirloom-quality pieces.

How to Identify Different Chikankari Embroidery Techniques and Patterns

Recognizing authentic chikankari embroidery patterns is key to understanding the value of your garment.

• Look for the soft shadow of Bakhiya, with neat stitches on both sides of the fabric.
  

• Feel for the textured knots of Phanda and Murri, adding depth to floral motifs.
  

• Spot the delicate netting of Jali Work, uniform and perfectly spaced, a clear sign of mastery.
  

• Observe classic motifs vines, paisleys, and florals that define true Lucknowi embroidery techniques.

Which Chikankari Stitches Are Most Popular and Which Are the Most Difficult

Among the chikankari stitches types, some are staples in daily wear while others are reserved for special, high-end pieces.

Most Popular Stitches

• Bakhiya (Shadow Work): Favored for its timeless elegance, appearing in everything from simple cotton kurtis to premium ensembles.
  

• Phanda: Loved for its versatility and often used in chikankari kurti for women to enhance floral motifs.

Most Difficult Stitches

• Jali Work: Precision and patience are key; even experienced artisans spend hours perfecting small sections.
  

• Murri: Requires a steady hand to create even, consistent knots a true marker of a master artisan.

Care Tips for Hand Embroidery Stitches

Proper care helps your hand embroidery stitches last for years while retaining their original charm.

• Wash by hand with mild detergent to prevent thread damage.
  

• Air-dry in the shade to avoid fading.
  

• Iron on the reverse side at low heat to protect delicate needlework patterns.
  

• Store in breathable cotton bags, away from direct sunlight and moisture.

Styling Tips for a Chikankari Kurti for Women

A chikankari kurti is versatile and can be styled for any occasion with the right pairings.

House of Chikankari Celebrating Traditional Stitching Methods

House of Chikankari is a conscious fashion brand dedicated to preserving traditional stitching methods while reimagining them for the modern wardrobe

With a network of over artisans, the brand ensures every piece carries authentic craftsmanship from simple kurtis with Taipchi to couture-level ensembles featuring intricate Jali Work.

Conclusion Preserving the Art of Chikankari Stitches

Each stitch in the chikankari embroidery patterns is a piece of living history. With 32 chikankari stitches types, the craft represents centuries of refinement and heritage.

By choosing authentic brands like House of Chikankari, you support artisans and keep this tradition thriving. Whether it’s a chikankari kurti for women for daily wear or a luxurious bridal outfit, every thread carries a story of patience, skill, and timeless elegance.

FAQS

Q. How many types of stitches are in chikankari?
There are 32 chikankari stitches types, grouped into flat, raised, and intricate jali techniques, each serving a unique purpose in the design.

Q. What are the most difficult chikankari stitches?
Jali Work and Murri are the most challenging, requiring years of practice and steady hands to execute perfectly.

Q. How to identify different chikankari stitches?
Look for the shadowy effect of Bakhiya, the raised texture of Phanda and Murri, and the fine netting of Jali Work hallmarks of authentic Lucknowi embroidery techniques.

Q. Which chikankari stitch is most popular?
Bakhiya (Shadow Work) is the most widely used, known for its elegance and versatility in both casual and premium pieces.

Q. How to care for different chikankari stitches?
Hand wash or dry clean, dry flat in shade, iron on the reverse side, and store in breathable cotton bags to protect your hand embroidery stitches.